Souri



Feb. 9,1926. l

c. B. SPALSBURY METHOD oF MAKING BooTs AND sHoEs Filed April 19. 1922 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 7i-vento 7 6 f W M @L C. B. SPALSBURY METHOD 0F MAKNG BOOTS AND sHoEs K Feb. 9 1926.

3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed April 19A, 1922 Feb. 9 5 w26.

c. B. sl= ALs|imFw4 METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS AND SHOES Filed April 19, 1922 y3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented Feb. 9,1926.

Larian- PATENT OFFICE.

B. SIPAIISBURI,v OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, ASSIGNOR TO JOHNSON, STEPHENS y 1& ,SIIINKLE'VSI-IOE COMPANY, vOli" ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A CORPORATION 0F MIS- V'll/ILE!'.lII-lOID. OF MAKING BOOTS ANDl SHOES.

Application filed April 18, 1922. Serial No. 555,588.

To @Zlio/windt may concern.' l

Be it known thatJ I, CHARLES B. SPALSBURY, a citizen of thel United States, and resident of` St. Imnis,n State 'fof 'Missouri, have invented an Improvement v' in Methods of akingBoots and `Slices, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying dra'i'vings, is a specification, lilgeletters on the drawings representing like P'fS I, i,

f '.My'piesent inventien relates to themanu- .Fac'ture 'fof boots1 and 'shoes andA to an improved boot or ,slice construction resulting froniiny novel process. In 4carrying out my present novel 'process I also prefer to utilize a novel type of lasting machine, shown and described lin my copending application, Ser. No. 63 Q,131, .filedfApril' 5, 1923, and herewith I havefillustrateda portion only of the lastingfrmachine oyf'my' saidcopending applica'- tion in order 'to more clearlydescrbe and show the preferredembpdiments i and methads vemployed in'carrying out my present inventionj u In themanufacture of boots and slices as at present carried-out in modern factory methods, it ismost important, to utilize, so

` far aspossible, the various established steps,

machines and recognizedl labor conditions affecting the same, 'with comparatively slight changes, and I have :carried out jthis condi- !'ionin theldevelopment of my present novel process. l In other' words, Iam able to utilize practically all the present well-established and high speed preliminary machines V and ope/retiens and yet to manufacture shoes y myp 1'qcess,. with comparatively slight chaiigesaiid bythe addition of a. single 1nachine or only a vfew machines. vIt will be appreciated that-the process can be carried out by hand," although I yhave developed the novel machine above referred to to expedite the method herein'partially illustrated and described.` f

An important object of my present inven- 'ion to manufacture `a boot or shoe which vwillbe.extremelyflexible and also to manufacture 4a'fshoe substantially Without permanentU lalsftfingl'taclffs therein, excepting vonly :it the`heell'and'toe'if desired. In fact my present'sli'ce andthe method of making same, vprodjficfes"a resultingHeXible product substantially. equivalent in desirability, marketability andv quality, toSk the best grades of turn fshee construction, :without the turning method and still employing a single sole,`or

and outsole portions united.

In carrying out my present method I utilize the usual practise of sorting soles for grade and weight, skiving the same to a uniform thickness by any suitable machine or machines, also rounding the soles, and then I specially7 prepare the same, splitting the sole from the heel to and including the shank portion, as well as around the margin of the forepart and toe. This forms substantially an insole and an outsole portion, leaving the grain side of the leather for the tread surface and outsole part of the shoe, which may be of greater or any desired eX- tent of. thickness. I may Vary this thickness as desired, giving a greater proportion of the sole for the tread or outsole part from the shank to the toe portion and a greater thickness or proportion for the shank or heel .part on the insole portion, this being readily effected on any well-known splitting machines, with slight changes and adjustments if desired. Preferably I form this marginal split portion around the forepart simply ,as a cutting or splitting action, but if desired I may also cut out or remove a small thickness lof the leather for the purpose of affording room for the upper materials to be lasted and concealed therein as will be hereinafter more fully described. I also Cut away or trim down the marginal edge of the insole portion, cutting it back slightly tov permit the marginal part of the iutsole to extendV beyond the insole in substantially similar position as a Mc- Kay outsole is made to-extend over a McKay insole. This operation can be readily effected by any cutting machine, particularly ty thewell-known sole rounders now in general use. Or I may prepare a sole by uniting .a separate or usual set of McKay' insole and outsole, thus producing soles of layers, or lamir ated. with the marginal recesses to receive the lasted upper between the layers. 'lhe insole when prepared is then applied to a last, the upper materials assembled thereon, and pulled over either by hand or machine and thereupon the shoe is lasted. This lasting' operation may be eifected'by hand Orland preferably by my specialv machine as shown in said copending application Ser. No. 630,131, filed April 5, 1923. In either instance the upper materials are pulled Ying tacks thereon as is customary in welt shoe manufacture, `and then securing the shank portion by non-metallic means, such tor lexample as by cross-stitching, cementing or the like. `This step enablesme to make a more flexible shoe 'and one` substantially without lasting tacks` throughout the shank and forepart, as well as free of tacks in the shank if desired. y I.

lVitli the shoe thus partially lasted and the upper secured-at heel and toe and preferably at` the shank also, I then effect the novel step of lasting` which is of great importance in this shoe construction. This lasting' con sists in forcing' the upper materials into the marginal` split or recessed portion along each side of the forepart liietween the insole and outsole parts of the sole. I contemplate several differentmethods of accomplishing this lasting action. i I may either trim olii' the upper materials at a point suilicientto allow for,l the stretchingr and lai-ting action and tncking in the n'iarginal edge of the upper so as not to bunch or crowd the split portion of the sole; or I may force the upper` materials in, leaving the same doubled over the lasting instrumentalities. `and then cut off the surplus vmaterial by the action of a cutting tool, preferably a thin bladed knife. or-I may leave the doubledover upper just as thus forced into its marginal edge. particularly if the sole is partly cut awa-y or recessed of suitable thickness to receive this doubled over part of the upper materials. In either method I prefer to secure thel lasted upper by a novel process of drivingalasting tacks or other temporaryv fastening' devices entirely through the outsole and insole portions engaging the upper where doubled over, or cut. into'and between the two splitA portions. This application of lasting tacks is made before the lasting instrument is withdrawn, so that the upper is held in its stretched Ior stra-ined and lasted position directly in the marginal part. `With` the shoe thus lasted I then draw the last and apply through and through stitching in the same manner as utilized in Mc- Kay shoe stitching, uniting the lasted upper to both insole and outsole portions of the sole. This stitching may be put in entirely around the toe if desired, and around the heel also.` but preferalily will be applied from just short ot the toe portion along the "forepart and shank to the heel portion, the heel seat being preferably tacked and the extreme toe portion `where pointed models are employed also would ordinarily be tacked. After stitching I remove the lasting tucks7` unless previously withdrawn, either method' being possible.

The resulting product gives me a novel type of boot or shoe, substantially free of metallic fastenings, lasting tacks or the like, and yet with a strong stitching and furthermore producing an extremelyflexible shoe construction, combining` the desirable and eliminatingl the undesirable features of both the turn and McKay shoe construction.

l The method of makingy this shoe constitutes the novel steps above briefly outlined, particularly the feature of cutting the insole and outsole portions with yaryinv thicknesses; the lasting step and particu arly the feature of trimming and cutting the upper materials to tit the depth of the marginal split or out portion or` the recessing of theI sole to tit the upper materials; and the method of tacking by temporary sta-y or lasting tacks through theupper, insole and outsole, is distinctly novel and I Wish to claim the same broadly.

lVith the shoe up er and outsole stitched` it is then relasted, t le heel applied and shoe finished in any desired manner, by well known methods, processes and?` established' machines therefor.

Referring to the` drawings, illustrating the preferred embodiment of carrying out my invention, y

Fig. l is a. plan view of my prepared sole;

Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view on thel line 2 2 of Fig. l; p

Fig. 3 is a longitudinal sectional view showing the insole of Figs, l and 2 incorporated in a shoe;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a lasted shoe showing the outsole portion removed at toe and heel with the/toe and heel attached by permanently lasting tacks; p

Fig. is a cross-sectional Viewv illustrating the lasting and showing onemethod oftl'imming the shoe upper along the forepart prior to lasting; Y

Fig.v 6 is a cross-sectional View showingv different methods of driving temporary lasting tacks; f

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary cross-sectional View illustrating lasting along the margin of the forepart; and y v Fig. 8 is a. cross-sectional view illustrating a completed shoel construction l Fig. 9 is a eross-sectionalfview illustratingone step in the lasting machine method;

Fig. 10 being asimilar cross-sectional View slrowingthe second lasting machine step at the marginal sides and forepart;

Fig. 11 being aV fragmentary plan View corresponding to that of Fig. vl0; and

Fig.r l2 is affragmentary, cross-sectipnal, marginal View of the soleprepared with a recessed portion of sufficient extent to allow the upper materials to be embedded and lasted therein without trimming.

Fig. 13 is a cross-sectional view illustrating a. feasible method of forming a laminated sole, readily accon'iplished by uniting the ordinary insole and outsole intended for McKay footwear.

Referring toy the drawings, the shoe sole is shown after it is prepared for use. rlhe sole is preferably of usual sole leather and of suitable thickness and quality for the particular .shoe in which it is to be incorporated, As the sole when completed is in effect a combined outsole and insole, I will define the same as consisting of an outsole portion 1 and the insole portion 2, these two portions being left united at a substantial portion of the forepart at 3. The sole blank is sorted, graded and skived as above explained, preferably marked or stamped with the appropriate .size and grade or number of irons, is rough rounded to substantially the cony tour shown in the drawing of the out-sole portion 1, is then split in from the heel and shank as shown at 5 and around the toe portion as illustrated at 6 and also on the side margins of the forepart as shown at 7 and 8, thus leaving the connect-ing ligature 3. The upper or insole porton 2 is vthen .separately rounded to .substantially the configuration illustrated in Fig. 1, i. e., to a reduced size in order to leave the extension or margin on the outsole 1 as clearly shown at l0, 10, Fig. 2. This margin, of course, can be of any size, extent, or style desired. lVith the sole thus prepared, it is then assembled on a last 15 by one or more tacks as usual. If desired, I may channel the marginal portion ofthe outsole 1 throughout the forepart and shank, as shown at 16, to con ceal the stitches, this being a customary method. The upper materials, consisting in the upper and lining, designated at 18, are then assembled and the shoe is pulled over7 and lasted. At the toe and heel portions, as .shown in Fig. 4, the upper materials 18 are permanently secured by lasting tacks 2() to the insole portion at the toe 2l and ,at the heel. A counter and box toe can of course be added if desired. As shown in Fig. 3, the toe portion is temporarily lasted to the insole part 2. To facilitate this lasting and tacking operation the outsole portion 1 is turned backwardly or held backwardly by the operator and the tacks driven in through the insole portion. The lasting is then continued, preferably at the shank by hand or hand method laster, the assembled and pulled over ,shoe being preferably in position in a bed lasting machine for the hand operation, or in my improved special lasting machine covered in my said cepending applicat'on. I may tack the shank portion or, and preferably will, securefthe shank part of the upper by temporary lasting tacks only and pern'ianently secure the same by a lme of stitching 24, see Fig. 4. This permit-s the lasting tacks' to be removed and facilitates flexibility and a non-metallic shoe construction.

lith the shoe thus far lasted, viz, the toe, heel and shank, it is then ready for lasting at the marginal sides at the forepart, within the split portions 7 and 8. For this operation several methods may be carried out. The methodshown in Fig. 5 consists .in pulling and lasting the upper materals 18 unt l substantially the limit of stretching and litting has been reached, and thereupon the surplus upper` materials would be severed by a sharp knife or cutter, either on the line. 26 or slantingly, to give a beveled part on the line 27 (see Fig. 5) at the right. The upper material is then forced into pos'tion, while the outsole edges 10 are held out by a lasting instrument 25, forcing the upper material smoothly, firmly and completely into the depth provided by the marginal split openings 7, and 8. lith the upper then in this position, the outsole is turned down and a last/ng tack 30 driven into position to hold the lasted upper 18 into its lasted position. This lasting tack 30 may be driven entirely through the outsole portion, as shown in Fig. 6, at the left, or may be driven through the flap` afforded by the channelu 16, as shown at the right, Fig. 6. A further acceptable method of lasting consists in the arrangement` shown in 7, wherein the upper materials 18, after having been lasted and held in position by the lasting instrument 25, has the surplus material severed by a sharp knife on the line 33, Fig. 7. Thereupon the outsole portions are moved down and the lasting tacks applied as already described. These last'ng tacks may and preferably will be applied between the lasting instrument 25, or a plurality of the same, as shown. in Fig. Ll, the vlasting tacksSO being driven entirely tl'irough a portion of the outsole, the upper materials and the insole part, between the spaces afforded by the lasting instruments or slots in one of such instruments, as will be noted in Fig. 11, where my machine opera-tion is shown.

A Vstill further method of effecting thi. lasting around the ligature 3 is shown in Fig. 10. In this form, the outsole part has a small sect'on removed, as best seen in Fig. 12, leaving a substantial recess 35 therein, of suitable width to receive the doubled surplus upper materials 18, which are forced into position by the lasting machine, as shown in Fig. 10.` In this form the outsole portion is simply forced down on top of the doubled upper materials and the lasting tacks driven through between the openings afforded by the lasting fingers 50. This method of course can be utilized either by my `machine or by hand `operations or other wise. Y lith the uppeil materials thus lasted and ;ecm'ed to the sole, l then withdraw the last: or may remove the stay tacks and subsequently `vvitlxdrauf' the last and apply through and through stitching forming the seam 11), passingthrough the insole portion 2, the upper materials 18, where they are engaged between the two insole and outsole portions thus permanently .uniting soleand upper together. This stitching would be set through the outsole channel 16 `in case the same has been eut. I As illustrated in Figs. 9, 1t), and 11.` whereina tragn'ientary portion oit' my novel and special machine is shown, l perform the lasting operations substantiallyas above described, but with the added feature ot providing a plurality of yielding reciprocable fingers 1 50, placing these lasting fingers first in contact with the upper materials, below the marginal split portion and below the insole portion, then effecting a relative vertical movement between the assembled upper, sole and last, and the lasting machine, so as to secure a wiping action vbetween Vthe, edges ot the fingers 50 and the upper 18. Then I efl'eet aforward moven'ient of the lasting fingers, preferably sin'niltaneously, to wipe and'push the upper .into and over the insole portions` 'hen in this position, as shown in Fig. 10, the surplus marginal edge of the upper materials 18 may be cut oit', it not previ ously cut ofi' in the manner illustrated in connection with Fig. 5, or it" the sole has the recess 25 to receive the same,fthe entire doubled upper 4may be left in saidY rccess and the outsole portion tacked Vdown thereiiver between the fingers 50. The fingers are then withdrawn and the shoe is completelylasted. f

Atthis pointl also I may apply the usual shank stiii'ene1,-see F ig. 3-securing the fia-me 'inany suitable and desirable Way. The .outsole is then applied land tacked in position, the resulting heel nailing opera tion firmly securing the heel portion of the outsole tothe heelr seat/of` the shoe.` My lasting machine is not specifically claimed herein, nor is it shown in detail, thefragmentary portionsinFigs. 5), 10 and 11 being illustrative `only to show a series of yieldingly spaced lasting fingers 50 through which the lasting tacks 30 may. be driven, uhile the fingers 5() are in, position, `holding the uppcra'nd insole in lasted position. 'l`ne means o operating these fingers 5() in unison is more clearly shoivn in my said co-pending application covering the lasting machine.

shown in Fig. 3, I may prefer tot'orm the heel .Splitting and forepart splitting operations at adiiierent relative position throughout rthe 'sole with regard to thick ness. At the ilorepart vit is most desirable to have the outsole 1 ot' greatest possible thickness, and theretore the split portions` (iv and 7 show a relatively small proportion of the sole for the insole 2 and a relatively greater proportion for the outsole 1. ',lhroughout the shank and heel, however, it is more desirable to have the insole oit greater strength and thickness, as there is no direct wear on the outsole and thereto-re l torni the heel splitting on the line 5 at a relative vpoint nearer the bottom surt'ace oi the outsole, lcavi Y extent. i Y .W ith my shoe as thus made, an extremely simple and. etlicient series o-'t' operations are possible, the usual and wellknown shoe manufacturing machines, steps, skilled labor and methods ot' manufacture are embodied Without serious interruption or practical difficulty. My shoe therefore is readily adaptable to modern shoe it'actory manufacturing methods. AV resultingl .shoe is produced which has greatf'lexibility, is tree oi lasting tacks,excepting only at the heel seat and at the toeportion it desiredffhas no expensive welt and channeling operations, is free of the action and danger ot turning incident to turned shoe construction and yet results in a single soled shoe substantially equal in every way to turn shoes :tor comfort and marketability and. greatly superior thereto in wear, economy ot construction and geneal satisfaction. l believe that my resulting shoe product is a-novelty as well as the novel steps and processv oit manufacturing and also the novel form of insole and herein l have elected to -claim broadly. the method or process of shoe construction, and in companion ap}')lications have claimed the insole and patent shoe.

here l use a laminated sole, as shown in Fig. 13, the insole and outsole members mav be united by a single line of stitching (S0, oi*

a pair ot rows of Vstitching (il, at eachr marginal edge, leaving a suiiicient lextent ot' the insole and outsole portions separated to form the rec-ess in which the marginal edge ot the upper is forced and lasted. This temporary or permanent uniting oit' the insole and outsole by stitching (it), (il, adhesive, tacks, or other means, is only necessary at the torepart, equivalent to theligature 3. ln tact, l consider it entirely feasible to maliufacture McKay shoes ivithfinsoie and outsole ot present, weight, grade and thickness by first uniting the insole and outsole at the central portion ot'- the forepart as herein illustrated and then proceedingin accordance with my method. and in y broader claims are intended to cover such a sole, being in efiect a single sole 'tor the purposes of the various steps in carrying out-my in vention. i

I also desire, ordinarily, to leave the lastg the insole portionefoi'i substantial.

.ing tacks along the forepart in the shoe until the stitching has been put in, and this is my preferred method, although it is feasible to withdraw the lasting tacks betore the last is pulled and the shoe then stitched. Either method is intended to be within the .scope of certain of my appended claims.

My invention is further described and defined in the form of claims as follows: Y

i. That improvement in the art of making boots and shoes which consists in providing a sole adapted to be both outsole and insole, assembling the sole and upper materials on the last, lasting the shoe, securing al portion ot' the lasted upper between said insole and outsole portions by lasting tacks driven through the outsole, upper, and insole members, withdrawing the tast and uniting the upper and insole and outsole portions by through and through stitching.

2. rlie improved method of making shoes consisting in providing a combined insole and outsole member having an upper receivin` recess at the sides ot the torepart, lasting the upper in said recess, and securing the lasted upper by tastenings engaging both insole, outsole and upper, and thereafter completing the shoe by through and through stitching. l

Il. The in'iproved method ot making shoes consisting in providing a combined insole and outsole member having an upper receiving recess at the sides of the fore part, lasting the upper in said recess, and securing the le ted upper by temporary tastenings engaging both insole and outsole, and thereatter completing the shoe by through and through .stitching 4. The improved method of making shoes consisting in providing a combined insole and outsole member having an upper re-.

ceiving recess at the sides ot' the tore part, lasting the upper in said recess, and securing the lasted upper by temporary fastenings engaging both insole and outsole, said temporary lasting means being applied closely adjacent the lasting devices, then withdrawing said temporary fastenings, removing the last and completing the shoe by through and through stitching'.

5. The improved method ot making a single soled shoe consisting in forming the sole to receive the upper materials in the marginal portions of the sole, lasting the upper therein, trimming and securing the lasted upper therein, holding the upper by temporary tastenings extending through the upper and the sole portions, forming said recess, withdrawing the last and permanently uniting the upper and .sole by through and through stitching.

6. The improved method oi making` shoes, consisting in providing a combined insole and outsole, having said insole and outsole separated at the heel, shank, toe, and along the margins ot the iorepart, lasting the upper, securing themairginal part of the lasted upper at the orepart between said insole and outsole portions, by removable tasteners, attaching the shank portion of the lasted upper by non-metallic means, removing the last, applying through and through stitching, and thereupon removing the tasteners retaining the lasted upper at each side of the torepart.

T. The improved method ot making a shoe having an insole and outsole and through and through stitching, which consists in first uniting said insole and outsole at the central portion o'tl the 'torepart, then as` sembling said combined insole and outsole as a single sole upon a last with an upper, lasting the upper, securing the lasted upper to the insole member, removing the last and applying theithrough and through stitching.

8. The improved method ot' making` a shoe having an insole and outsole and through and through stitching, which consists in first uniting said insole and outsole Vat the central portion or' the orepart, then assembling said combined insole and outsole as a single sole upon a last with an upper, lasting the upper, securing the lasted upp-er to the insole member, removing the last and applying the through and through stitching, and thereafter removing the upper retaining means applied to hold the lasted upper until the through and through stitching is applied.

ln testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

CHAS. B. SPALSBRY. 

